Bright orange winter squash is both a holiday and a seasonal tradition. Sweet or savory, mashed or roasted, squash makes a delicious side dish for turkey. Squash and pumpkin (a type of squash) were probably served at the original 1621 Thanksgiving feast of venison, turkey, waterfowl and fish.

All squashes are botanically a fruit that originated in Central America, where they were an important staple for 8,000 years. They were probably the first food cultivated by Native Americans, even before corn and beans. They belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, along with cucumbers, gourds and melons. The colonists learned how to use squash from Native Americans, and early explorers brought them to Europe.

Which squash will you choose? From giant banana squash and large Hubbards to tiny Sweet Dumplings, there are at least 16 varieties! Sweet winter squash comes in a myriad of colors, shapes and sizes. Although there are subtle differences in flavor and texture, most can be used interchangeably in recipes.

Acorn, Hubbard, Kabocha, Carnival, Buttercup and pumpkin have firm flesh and a hard, inedible shell. They are best cut in half and roasted for their dry, light, mild-tasting pulp, which is mashed and mixed with seasonings. Although there are subtle variations in flavor and texture, most varieties of winter squash can be used interchangeably in recipes.

Butternut, Delicata, Black Futsu, Red Kuri and Sweet Dumpling have a thin shell. They don’t need to be peeled and can be cut with a sharp knife. The black futsu is small and bumpy, with many ribs; it is related to the Butternut. Its flesh is smooth and fine-grained; its flavor is fruity, and it can be eaten raw or pickled when thinly sliced. It can be cut in wedges to roast, saut or fry. The Red Kuri is shaped like a pumpkin, with the flavor of chestnuts and a tender skin that is edible when cooked. Spaghetti squash is one of the first to mature. Its flesh separates into strands when cooked (hence its name) rather than forming a pulp like the others. The sugar pumpkin is used mostly in baked goods — not just pies, but breads, cupcakes and muffins. Kabocha, with a deep green shell and dry, flaky, light, mild flesh, is a favorite among connoisseurs.

Botanically, squash is a fruit rich in carbohydrates and natural sugars. It is easy to digest, so is often given to babies. Nutritionally, it is high in fiber, vitamin A and many other vitamins and minerals. It can be prepared in a variety of ways; roasting, steaming and boiling are the most common. With seasonings from sweet to spicy and savory, it can be incorporated into casseroles, pies, breads and soups. The sweet, nutty flavor blends well with tart or sharp flavors. Cook it with onions and mushrooms, tomatoes, cheese, sausage, eggs and a variety of herbs from basil and parsley to dill and marjoram. Now that tomatoes are no longer in season, top a salad of fresh greens with cubes of roasted squash, diced apple and toasted walnuts. One large squash can make several meals, so you may want to freeze some after roasting. And this time of year, it is abundant and relatively inexpensive.

If your Thanksgiving feast includes vegetarians, squash can be more than a side dish; a squash casserole like squash and kale gratin can easily be served as a main course. Other main course options are stuffed baked squash or squash lasagna.

Winter squash will keep for weeks if stored in a cool, dark, dry place. But don’t refrigerate it; temperatures below 50 degrees will cause chilling injuries. And dry, hot air will cause it to lose moisture.

Basic Roasted Squash

This makes a nice side dish with many options in this basic recipe.

Ingredients:

Butternut, delicata or other soft-skinned winter squash

Salt and pepper

Olive oil

Seasoning Options:

Paprika or curry powder

Maple syrup or honey

Fresh herbs — parsley, sage, thyme, rosemary

Parmesan cheese

Toasted nuts (for optional garnish).

Sauted onions or shallots

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Wash squash (peeling optional). Cut in half. Remove seeds and membranes. Dice into 3/4 to 1″ cubes. If using a delicata, after removing the seeds and membranes, lay each half with the shell up and cut into half-inch slices, creating moon-shaped pieces.

In a large bowl, toss squash with salt and pepper to coat (if using paprika or curry powder, do it here). Drizzle with olive oil (and honey or maple syrup, if you want a sweet squash) and stir to coat. Place in single layer in a baking pan or rimmed cookie sheet. Set in the preheated oven and roast until soft, stirring and turning over the pieces every 10 minutes or so with a spatula. Roast 25 to 40 minutes, or until squash is tender and creamy when pierced with a fork, and the pieces are golden brown on the edges.

Remove from oven. Sprinkle with fresh chopped herbs, and garnish with toasted nuts (if using) and serve. Or sprinkle with a little grated sharp cheese (like Parmesan), then return to the oven for 2 to 4 minutes to melt the cheese.

You can also cook some onions or shallots in butter to caramelize, and combine with roasted squash in the serving bowl.

Simple Sauteed Delicata

or Butternut

Don’t have space in the oven? Make this instead.

This can be a side dish for your turkey or a main dish by adding smoked ham or toasted nuts.

Ingredients:

2 small delicata squash or 1 Butternut

1 onion

1 clove garlic

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 apple

2 cups diced cooked ham (optional, for main dish)

Several leaves (1 cup) torn arugula, kale, spinach or fresh parsley greens, optional

1 to 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Prepare squash. Wash and cut in half lengthwise with a sharp knife. Remove seeds and membranes. Place cut side down on cutting board, and cut into 1/2 inch slices, creating moon-shaped pieces. Set aside. (Dice the Butternut).

Peel and dice the onion. Set aside.

Peel and mince the garlic. Set aside.

In a large skillet with lid, heat oil. Add onion; sprinkle with salt & pepper. Cover and cook on low about 5 minutes. Add reserved squash and garlic; stir and cook another 5 minutes. Add apple, greens, (and ham, if using); continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until squash is tender. If it gets too dry, moisten with apple cider or broth.

For taste, adjust seasonings if needed. Sprinkle with cider vinegar and serve hot as a side.

For a vegetarian main course, omit ham and top each serving with toasted walnuts.

Serves three to four, depending on size of squash.

Roasted Squash and Greens Salad

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon olive or walnut oil

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon honey or maple syrup

1 clove garlic

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups arugula

1 cup spinach, lettuce or other salad greens

1/4 cup fresh minced parsley

1/4 cup scallions or sweet onion

1 or 2 cups diced, roasted squash

1 apple, cored and diced

2 tablespoons walnuts, toasted

2 tablespoons crumbled goat cheese or feta

1/2 cup craisins or cranberries

Directions:

In a salad bowl, combine olive oil, vinegar and honey. Crush garlic with salt and add. Wash greens, and toss in the dressing. Add remaining ingredients and toss to mix.

Author of the award-winning cookbook Garden Gourmet: Fresh & Fabulous Meals from your Garden, CSA or Farmers’ Market, Yvona Fast lives in Lake Clear and has two passions: writing and cooking. She can be found at www.yvonafast.com and reached at yvonawrite@yahoo.com or on Twitter: @yvonawrites.